STITCH ROUND Crochet goose amigurumi pattern with boots and hat
8 parts, dozens of rounds to tick off for a dressed-up goose amigurumi in solid-colored yarn.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Rounds
- 58 rounds
- Yarn weight
- Worsted
- Time
- 4-6 hours
Intermediate
What the original page called it. Nothing here is graded a second time.
58 rounds
Each one gets its own line, with a box beside it to tick as you go.
Worsted
What the sample was made in. Any weight works — the size moves with it.
About this pattern
This goose comes together from eight separate parts, the head alone taking 15 rounds to tick off before it even meets the body. Add the 17-round body, two legs at 9 rounds apiece, two boots worked over 6 rounds, two wings at 4 rounds, and a 4-round hat, and the project adds up to a proper sit-down make rather than a quick one-evening amigurumi.
The head carries the most shaping of any single part, building up and back down in small increase and decrease bursts that call for a steady stitch count. The real slow-down point is the bill shaping worked by continuing round 12, where the increases and decreases need tracking closely so the beak sits even rather than lopsided.
This design is built to be customized: swap or mix the yarn colors for the body, boots, hat, and bow to give your goose its own fashionable twist, whether it ends up as a plush toy, a decor piece, or a handmade gift.
- Start with the head, working the increases and decreases round by round until the shape is fully formed.
- Move into the bill shaping by continuing round 12, where the goose gets its distinctive beak profile.
- Build the body separately, following its own increase and decrease pattern across its full round count.
- Make the legs and boots as pairs, stuffing and closing each one before they get attached.
- Work the wings and hat as smaller quick-finish pieces that add the finishing character.
- Finish with the bow as a simple no-round accent that dresses up the whole goose.
What goes wrong
- Losing the stitch count through head shaping Mark the start of each round with a stitch marker, since the head moves through several short increase and decrease rounds in a row. A single missed stitch here throws off the whole shape by the time round 15 is reached.
- Rushing the bill shaping Slow down when continuing round 12 for the bill, working the increases and decreases exactly as placed. This part only runs 2 rounds, so there is little room to correct a mismatched stitch count before it is closed.
- Mismatched pairs on boots and legs Work the two boots and two legs side by side rather than one fully finished before the other starts. This keeps tension and round count consistent so the finished pair matches.
- Skipping the front-loop-only joins on boots Watch for the front-loop slip stitch joins and front-loop-only increases in the boot rounds, since working into both loops there changes the boot's shape. Keep front-loop-only rounds visually distinct from regular SC rounds while working them.
Yarn, hook and the rest
Copied from the source pattern's own materials list.
- Worsted weight yarn
- Crochet hook (size to suit your yarn)
- Fiberfill stuffing
- Safety eyes
- Wire or cable (for legs and boots)
- Yarn needle (for sewing and weaving in ends)
Progress tracker
0 of the 58 rounds on this page are ticked.
The pattern, round by round
Kept in the order and the wording the source used. Tick a round as you finish it; the ticks stay on this device.
Head
Round 1
Chain 4, skip 1, 2 SC, INC, 2 SC (6)
Round 2
INC, 5 SC (7)
Round 3
SC around (7)
Round 4
3 SC, INC, 3 SC (8)
Round 5
SC around (8)
Round 6
INC, 7 SC (9)
Round 7
SC around (9)
Round 8
(INC, 2 SC) × 3 (12)
Round 9
(INC, 3 SC) × 3 (15)
Round 10
(INC, 4 SC) × 3 (18)
Round 11
(INC, 5 SC) × 3 (21)Shift stitch with 1 SC
Round 12
9 CH, skip 6, 15 SC along chain (24)
Round 13
(DEC, 2 SC) × 6 (18)
Round 14
(DEC, SC) × 6 (12)
Round 15
DEC × 6 (6)Weave yarn through front loops of Round 15 and close Weave in yarn end
Boots(Make 2)
Round 1
Chain 7, skip 1, (SC 3, 4 SC) × 2 (14)Add 3 HDC2 to shift stitchInsert wire or cable
Round 4
DEC, 4 SC, 2 DEC, 2 HDC cluster (8)Insert stuffing
Round 5
Join 2 front loops with slip stitch, 4 SC, 2 FL slip stitch (6)
Round 6
(FL) INC, 4 SC, (FL) INC (18)
Round 7
INC, 7 SC (9)
Round 8
SC around (9)Leave a long tail for sewing
Legs(Make 2)
Round 1
6 SC in MR (6)
Round 2
(INC, SC) × 3 (9)
Round 3
SC around (9)
Round 4
DEC, 7 SC (8)
Round 5
SC around (8)
Round 6
3 SC, DEC, 3 SC (7)
Round 7
SC around (7)
Round 8
DEC, 5 SC (6)
Rounds 9–15
SC around (6)Insert Round 13–15 into boots Bend wire so only R1–12 stick out Insert wire into leg Weave yarn through front loops of R15Sew leg to bootSew both legs between body Rounds 37–40
Wings(Make 2)
Round 1
Chain 20, skip 1, 18 SC, 5 SC (16 SC total) (39 stitches)
Round 2
CH 1, turn, BLO 16 SC, BLO 4 INC, 19 SC
Round 3
CH 3, turn, skip 1, BLO 21 SC, (INC, SC) × 4, 15 SC
Round 4
CH 1, turn, BLO 15 SC, (INC, 2 SC) × 4, 21 SCSew to each side of the body
Hat
Round 1
8 SC in MR (8)
Round 2
BLO SC around (8)
Rounds 3–4
SC around (8)
Round 5
FLO INC × 8 (16)Weave in end Sew between Rounds 8–11 of the head
Continue Round 12 (bill shaping)
Round 12 (cont.)
Cont. 5 SC, SC2TOG (around bill), SC2TOG, 7 SC, SC2TOG (15)
Round 13
Cont. SC around (15)Insert safety eyes between Rounds 10–11, 5 stitches apartAdd stuffing
Rounds 14–22
SC around (15)Weave in end
Body
Round 23
(4 SC, INC) × 3 (18)
Rounds 24–25
SC around (18)
Round 26
(INC, 2 SC) × 6 (24)
Rounds 27–28
SC around (24)
Round 29
2 SC, (INC, 2 SC) × 6, 4 SC (30)
Rounds 30–31
SC around (30)
Round 32
2 SC, (INC, 3 SC) × 6, 4 SC (36)
Rounds 33–34
SC around (36)
Round 35
(INC, 2 SC) × 2, (DEC, SC) × 6, (INC, 2 SC) × 4 (30)
Rounds 36–37
SC around (36)
Round 38
INC, 2 SC, (DEC, SC) × 6, (INC, 2 SC) × 5 (36)
Rounds 39–40
SC around (36)
Round 41
(DEC, SC) × 6, (INC, 2 SC) × 6 (36)
Rounds 42–43
SC around (36)
Round 44
(DEC, 4 SC) × 6 (30)
Round 45
(DEC, 3 SC) × 6 (24)
Round 46
(DEC, 2 SC) × 6 (18)Add 4 SC to straighten the stitch lineSew the body closed
Bow
Chain 6, skip 1, 5 SC Wrap yarn around center and tie a knot to shape the bow Sew onto body at Round 23
Check your count
- Head · Round 5: 8 sts
- Head · Round 10: 18 sts
- Head · Round 15: 6 sts
- Boots(Make 2) · Round 4: 8 sts
- Boots(Make 2) · Round 6: 18 sts
- Boots(Make 2) · Round 8: 9 sts
Finish
- Weave in every yarn end from the head, body, legs, boots, wings, and hat as each part finishes, so no tails are left loose before assembly.
- Stuff the head, body, legs, and boots firmly as directed within those parts, packing evenly so no lumps or soft spots show through the solid-colored yarn.
- Attach the legs, boots, wings, hat, and bow to the finished body, positioning each one to sit straight before securing it in place.
Bigger or smaller
- Smaller
- Drop down to a finer yarn weight with a smaller hook, which tightens the gauge and shrinks the finished goose without changing any stitch counts in the pattern.
Photographs of this one
Every photograph on this page was taken by whoever published the pattern, and they are printed in the order the source listed them.
FAQs
Asked and answered
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.
Which part of this goose takes the longest to work?
The body is the largest single piece at 17 rounds, closely followed by the head at 15 rounds. Together these two parts account for most of the overall working time.
Do the boots and legs get worked as one piece?
No, boots and legs are separate parts, each made as a pair of two. The legs run 9 rounds and the boots run 6 rounds, so they are joined after both are complete.
What is the bill shaping step for?
It is a short 2-round section that continues from round 12 of the head to shape the goose's beak. It is worked right after the main head rounds, before the head is considered finished.
Is the bow a crocheted piece?
The bow has no rounds listed, meaning it is worked differently from the other parts rather than built up in standard rounds. It functions as a small finishing accent added at the end.