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Large amigurumi frog head crochet pattern

This large amigurumi frog head pattern shapes a ball from a magic ring, adds a color-switch muzzle, and finishes with bead eyes.

the finished piece
Large amigurumi frog head crochet pattern
Skill
Intermediate
Rounds
24 rounds
Yarn weight
Bulky
Hook
2.75 mm
Time
4-6 hours

Intermediate

What the original page called it. Nothing here is graded a second time.

24 rounds

Each one gets its own line, with a box beside it to tick as you go.

Bulky

What the sample was made in. Any weight works — the size moves with it.

About this pattern

This head is the piece that decides how the whole frog reads, and it comes together over dozens of rounds worked in one continuous spiral. It starts at a magic ring and increases out into a wide ball, then decreases back down before increasing again to begin the head proper. Green yarn carries the shape through these early rounds, then the color switches partway through to mark out the lighter muzzle area.

The shaping front-loads itself in two stages: an early increase-then-decrease sequence builds and narrows the base ball, then a second increase round widens the head again right before the yarn change, after which the remaining rounds hold steady to build depth for stuffing. Slow down right at the color switch, since that join sits on the visible front of the face and needs a clean tail to weave in later. The straight rounds that follow are the place to keep tension even so the head stays round rather than tapering.

  1. Begin the head in green yarn and work the shaping increases that flare the base outward.
  2. Decrease the ball back down, then increase again to begin the head proper.
  3. Switch over to the pink or blue yarn right at the point marked in the pattern for the muzzle.
  4. Continue in straight rounds without further shaping to build the depth of the head.
  5. Pause partway through to add stuffing so it stays even instead of settling at the base.
  6. Set the black beads for the eyes and embroider the smile once the shape is filled.
  7. Close the final round and secure every yarn tail before joining the head to the rest of the body.

What goes wrong

  • Losing the color switch mid-round Change to the pink or blue yarn exactly where the pattern calls for it, not a stitch early or late, so the muzzle line sits straight across the face.
  • Skipping the increase round Work the increase round in full before switching colors, since it sets the width the rest of the head depends on.
  • Uneven tension across the straight rounds Keep stitches consistent through the long run of plain rounds after the increase, since any tightening or loosening here shows as a lump or dent in the finished head.
  • Placing the bead eyes before stuffing settles Stuff the head first and let it firm up, then set the beads symmetrically once the shape is stable rather than guessing on a soft, unstuffed piece.

Yarn, hook and the rest

Copied from the source pattern's own materials list.

Yarn

  • Alize Softy (one skein of green, half a skein of pink/blue and some white colored yarn)
  • Hook: 2.75mm
  • Two black beads for the eyes
  • Yarn or embroidery floss for the smile
  • Thread to sew the details together
  • Sewing needle and scissors
  • Stuffing

Progress tracker

0 of the 24 rounds on this page are ticked.

The pattern, round by round

Kept in the order and the wording the source used. Tick a round as you finish it; the ticks stay on this device.

Head

The head and body are crocheted in one piece.

With green yarn:

Round 1

6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2

(inc)*6 (12)

Round 3

(1 sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4

(2 sc, inc) *6 (24)

Round 5

(3 sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6

(4 sc, inc)*6 (36)

Round 7

(5 sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8

(6 sc, inc)*6 (48)

Round 9

(7 sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 11

(7 sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 12

(6 sc, dec)*6 (42)

Round 13

(5 sc, dec)*6 (36)

Round 14

(4 sc, dec)*6 (30)

Round 15

(3 sc, dec )*6 (24)

Round 16

(2 sc, dec)*6 (18)Continue to crochet the body:

Round 17

(increase)*18 (36)Switch to pink/blue yarn:

Round 18

(6 sc, increase)*6 (42)

Round 19-26

42 sc (8 rows)Skip with green thread:

Round 27

(5 sc, dim)*6 (36)

Round 28

(4 sc, dim)*6 (30)

Round 29

(3 sc, dim)*6 (24)

Round 30

( 2 sc, dim)*6 (18)

Round 31

(1 sc, dim)*6 (12)

Round 32

(dim)*6 (6)Fasten off.

Check your count

  • Head · Round 8: 48 sts
  • Head · Round 17: 36 sts
  • Head · Round 32: 6 sts

Finish

  • Weave in the tail from the color switch first, since it sits on the visible muzzle and shows if left loose.
  • Stuff the head firmly and evenly before the last few rounds close in, working stuffing into the cheeks so the face holds its shape.
  • Close the final round snugly, then attach the black bead eyes and embroider the smile in yarn or floss before joining the head to the body.

Bigger or smaller

Larger
Move up to a thicker yarn with a larger hook and the same round count produces a noticeably bigger head, since each stitch takes up more space.
Smaller
Drop to a finer yarn with a smaller hook while keeping the same rounds, which tightens the fabric and shrinks the finished head without changing the shape.

FAQs

Asked and answered

These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.

How much yarn is needed for the head alone?

The full pattern calls for one skein of green plus a half skein of pink or blue and a small amount of white, and the head uses a share of each since it carries the color switch. Keep the leftover yarn on hand for the rest of the body pieces.

What hook size does this pattern use?

The pattern is worked with a 2.75mm hook throughout. Stick with that size for the head so the fabric stays dense enough to hold stuffing without gaps.

Can safety eyes replace the black beads?

The pattern specifies black beads sewn on with thread, which keep the finished piece soft enough for hand-stitching rather than punching through with a safety eye post. Beads also let the placement be adjusted after stuffing, which is harder to redo with safety eyes.

Why does the yarn change color partway through the head?

The switch to pink or blue marks out the frog's muzzle, giving the face a two-tone look without any embroidery. Keeping the switch clean at the marked round is what makes that line read clearly once the head is stuffed.