Amigurumi bear crochet pattern with safety eyes and embroidered face
59 rounds across seven parts build this little crochet bear with safety eyes.

- Skill
- Intermediate
- Rounds
- 59 rounds
- Yarn weight
- Worsted
- Hook
- 3.5 mm
- Time
- 4-6 hours
Intermediate
What the original page called it. Nothing here is graded a second time.
59 rounds
Each one gets its own line, with a box beside it to tick as you go.
Worsted
What the sample was made in. Any weight works — the size moves with it.
About this pattern
This bear breaks down into seven separate pieces: a 13-round head, two 3-round ears, a 4-round muzzle, two 9-round arms, two 9-round legs, and a 12-round body. Each part is small enough to finish in one sitting, which makes the whole project easy to tick off piece by piece rather than in one long push. Working in worsted-weight yarn on a 3.5 mm hook keeps the stitches tight enough to hold stuffing without gaps showing through.
The head carries the most shaping, climbing from a 6-stitch start up through several increase rounds before leveling off for the safety eye placement and the long stretch of plain single crochet that follows. The muzzle and ears are short but still need the increase rounds worked accurately, since a miscounted repeat there shows immediately on a piece this small. Slow down at every round that mixes single crochet with increases or decreases, since those are the rounds that set the bear's final shape.
- Start the head with a magic ring and increase steadily to build the dome shape.
- Set the safety eyes partway through the head rounds, then keep working rounds until the neck closes.
- Crochet the muzzle and both ears separately, leaving long tails for sewing them on later.
- Work the arms and both legs as their own small pieces, shaping each with increases and decreases.
- Build the body last, shaping it to taper before closing the final round.
- Sew every piece onto the body, then embroider the nose, smile, and eyebrows by hand.
What goes wrong
- Losing track of the spiral Mark the first stitch of each round on the head with a stitch marker so increase and decrease rounds line up correctly.
- Setting eyes before checking spacing Push both safety eye posts through but do not snap the backs on until the spacing looks even from the front.
- Underfilling the small parts Push stuffing into the muzzle, ears, and limb tips with a blunt tool so the shape stays firm after sewing.
- Rushing the increase rounds Count stitches at the end of every round that uses inc or dec, since a single missed repeat skews the whole shape on a piece this compact.
Yarn, hook and the rest
Copied from the source pattern's own materials list.
- Alize Lanagold (51% acrylic, 49% wool, 100g/240m) – approx. 40g
- Crochet hook: 3.5 mm
- 8mm safety eyes
- Embroidery thread for the face
- Stuffing for toys
- Needle
- Scissors
Progress tracker
0 of the 59 rounds on this page are ticked.
The pattern, round by round
Kept in the order and the wording the source used. Tick a round as you finish it; the ticks stay on this device.
Head
Work in a spiral.
Insert safety eyes in round 11, 5 stitches apart.
Cut the yarn, stuff the head firmly.
Round 1
Ch 2, 6 sc in the second ch from the hook. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)
Round 4
(2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
Round 5
(3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
Round 6
(4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
Round 7
(5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
Rounds 8–13
42 sc. (6 rounds)
Round 14
(5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
Round 15
2 sc, (dec, 4 sc) x 5, dec, 2 sc. (30)
Round 16
(3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
Round 17
1 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 5, dec, 1 sc. (18)
Round 18
(4 sc, dec) x 3. (15)
Ears
Work in rounds, starting each round with a ch 1.
Round 1
Ch 2, 6 sc in the second ch from the hook. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Rounds 3–4
12 sc. (2 rounds)Leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears.
Muzzle
Work in rounds, starting each round with a ch 1.
Round 1
Ch 2, 6 sc in the second ch from the hook. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(3 sc, inc) x 3. (15)
Round 4
15 sc.Cut the yarn, leave a long tail for sewing.
Arms
Work in a spiral.
Stuff the lower part of the arm.
Stuff only the lower part of the arms. Leave a tail for sewing.
Round 1
Ch 2, 6 sc in the second ch from the hook. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
12 sc.
Round 4
(4 sc, dec) x 2. (10)
Round 5
(3 sc, dec) x 2. (8)
Rounds 6–10
8 sc. (5 rounds)
Round 11
6 sc, dec. (7)
Rounds 12–16
7 sc. (5 rounds)
Round 17
1 sc, sl st.
Right Leg
Work in a spiral. Start with the right leg.
Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail for closing the hole.
Round 1
Ch 2, 6 sc in the second ch from the hook. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)
Round 4
18 sc.
Round 5
2 sc, 3 dec, 10 sc. (15)
Round 6
2 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc. (11)
Rounds 7–9
11 sc. (3 rounds)
Round 10
(1 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc. (16)
Round 11
16 sc, sl st.
Left Leg
Work in a spiral.
Round 1
Ch 2, 6 sc in the second ch from the hook. (6)
Round 2
6 inc. (12)
Round 3
(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)
Round 4
18 sc.
Round 5
2 sc, 3 dec, 10 sc. (15)
Round 6
1 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc. (11)
Rounds 7–9
11 sc. (3 rounds)
Round 10
(inc, 1 sc) x 3, (1 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc. (16)
Round 11
16 sc.
Do not cut the yarn. Continue to work on the body. Stuff both legs firmly.
Body
Continue crocheting from the left leg.
Sew the hole between the legs with two stitches using the remaining yarn from the right leg.
Stuff the body as you go.
Stuff the body firmly, cut the yarn, leaving 30 cm for attaching the head.
Round 1
8 sc, (continue on the right leg from the stitch following the last one) 16 sc, continue on the left leg, 8 sc. (32)
Round 2
7 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc. (36)
Rounds 3–5
36 sc. (3 rounds)
Round 6
1 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 1 sc. (32)
Rounds 7–8
32 sc. (2 rounds)
Round 9
(dec, 6 sc) x 4. (28)
Rounds 10–11
28 sc. (2 rounds)
Round 12
(dec, 5 sc) x 4. (24)
Rounds 13–14
24 sc. (2 rounds)
Round 15
(dec, 4 sc) x 4. (20)
Round 16
20 sc.
Round 17
(2 sc, dec) x 5. (15)
Join
Step 1Sew the head and body together, embroider the nose, smile, and eyebrows.
Check your count
- Head · Round 4: 24 sts
- Head · Round 14: 36 sts
- Head · Round 18: 15 sts
- Ears · Round 1: 6 sts
- Ears · Round 2: 12 sts
- Muzzle · Round 1: 6 sts
Finish
- Weave in every yarn tail from the head, ears, muzzle, arms, legs, and body before assembly starts.
- Stuff the head firmly as instructed, then stuff the body and limbs evenly so no part feels floppy or lumpy.
- Sew the head to the body, attach the ears, muzzle, arms, and legs, then embroider the nose, smile, and eyebrows.
Bigger or smaller
- Smaller
- Drop to a finer yarn with a smaller hook than the 3.5 mm called for, which tightens the stitches and shrinks the bear proportionally.
Tally for this round
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Short forms in this pattern
Short forms are not standardised. What follows was copied from this pattern's own source exactly as it appeared there; a different designer may use the same two letters for something else entirely.
- MR
- magic ring
- ch
- chain
- sc
- single crochet
- inc
- increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
- dec
- decrease (single crochet 2 stitches together)
- (…) x n
- repeat instructions inside brackets n times
FAQs
Asked and answered
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.
How much yarn does this bear actually use
The full bear takes roughly 40g of Alize Lanagold out of a 100g skein, so a single ball covers the head, body, limbs, ears, and muzzle with room to spare.
Can the muzzle and ears be made ahead of time
Yes, both are short, self-contained pieces that leave a long tail for sewing, so they can be crocheted early and set aside until assembly.
What size hook keeps the stuffing from showing
The pattern calls for a 3.5 mm hook, which keeps the single crochet fabric dense enough that stuffing stays hidden once each piece is filled.
When do the safety eyes go in
The eyes go in during round 11 of the head, spaced five stitches apart, before the remaining rounds close the back of the head.