STITCH ROUND Three-piece granny square dress set for babies
30 granny squares build a dress, hooded cardigan and bonnet set for babies and toddlers.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Rounds
- 31 rounds
- Yarn weight
- DK
- Hook
- 4.0 mm
- Time
- 25-35 hours
Intermediate
What the original page called it. Nothing here is graded a second time.
31 rounds
Each one gets its own line, with a box beside it to tick as you go.
DK
What the sample was made in. Any weight works — the size moves with it.
About this pattern
This set covers a pinafore dress, a granny square cardigan, and a waffle stitch bonnet, with 30 granny squares between the dress and cardigan plus the bodice, skirt, straps, cuffs, hood, and hood trims to work through. Treat the squares as the main project and tick them off in batches before moving to the bodice rows or the ribbed sections, since assembly leans on having a full stack ready to join.
Shaping shows up in the fitted bodice rows, the pleated skirt, and the hood that has to sit right at the neckline once the cardigan body is joined. Slow down at the join-as-you-go rounds on the squares, at the corner and side chain-space joins, and at the ribbed cuffs and button band where the hook size changes from the G-6 used for the squares to the F-5 used for the ribbing.
- Work all thirty granny squares first, sorting them by type and color assignment before any joining begins.
- Join the squares into their grid using join-as-you-go, replacing corner and side chains with slip stitches as each square meets its neighbor.
- Build the dress bodice flat from the bottom up, then shape the pleated skirt and attach the strap pieces.
- Set the granny square yoke and hem panels onto the dress so the motifs frame the bodice and lower edge.
- Construct the cardigan body from its joined squares, then add the button band, ribbed lower band, and ribbed cuffs.
- Shape the textured hood with its scallop trim and stripe accent, and work the bonnet separately in waffle stitch rows.
What goes wrong
- Mismatched square color assignments Sort squares by type before joining, since Type 1, 2, and 3 squares each use a different center and round color combination. Keep a simple tally as squares are completed to avoid joining the wrong type into a row.
- Sloppy join-as-you-go corners Work the replacement chain-1 slip stitch joins carefully at every corner and side space so the grid lies flat. A missed or loose join shows as a visible gap once the piece is blocked.
- Losing track of front and back post stitches Keep the waffle stitch row sequence in view, since FPdc and BPdc rows alternate every other right-side row. Working the wrong post stitch flattens the waffle texture entirely.
Yarn, hook and the rest
Copied from the source pattern's own materials list.
- Paintbox Yarns Simply DK (100% acrylic, 273 yd / 250 m per 100 g ball) in Champagne, Burnt Orange, Pillar Red, Grass Green, and Buttercup Yellow. Machine washable, budget-friendly, excellent stitch definition.
- Drops Safran (70% cotton, 30% polyamide, 175 yd / 160 m per 50 g ball) in Stone, Orange, Red, Dark Olive Green, and Yellow. The cotton content gives granny squares beautiful crispness.
- Lion Brand Pound of Love (100% acrylic, 1020 yd / 932 m per 454 g skein) in Fisherman plus coordinating skeins for accent colors. One skein covers all three pieces with yardage to spare.
- Any smooth DK weight yarn works well. Avoid fuzzy or bouclé yarns as they obscure the granny square motifs.
Yarn
- Yarn A (Main Color / Oatmeal Taupe): 275 (325, 390) yd / 251 (297, 357) m of DK weight yarn
- Yarn B (Burnt Orange): 65 (80, 95) yd / 59 (73, 87) m of DK weight yarn
- Yarn C (Deep Rust / Burgundy): 55 (65, 80) yd / 50 (59, 73) m of DK weight yarn
- Yarn D (Forest Green): 45 (55, 65) yd / 41 (50, 59) m of DK weight yarn
- Yarn E (Golden Yellow): 45 (55, 65) yd / 41 (50, 59) m of DK weight yarn
Hooks
- US size G-6 / 4.0 mm hook for main fabric and granny squares
- US size F-5 / 3.75 mm hook for ribbing, button bands, and hat
Notions
- Stitch markers (at least 6)
- Yarn needle for weaving ends and seaming
- 6 wooden buttons, 5/8 in / 16 mm diameter (2 for dress straps, 4 for cardigan)
- Scissors
- Rust-proof straight pins for blocking
Progress tracker
0 of the 31 rounds on this page are ticked.
The pattern, round by round
Kept in the order and the wording the source used. Tick a round as you finish it; the ticks stay on this device.
Waffle Stitch (worked in rows)
Requires a stitch count divisible by 3, plus 1 for turning chain.
Round 1
(RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, (FPdc in next st, sc in next st) across, sc in last st. Turn.
Round 2
(WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.
Round 3
(RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, (BPdc in next st, sc in next st) across, sc in last st. Turn.
Round 4
(WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Repeat Rows 1 through 4 for pattern. FPdc (Front Post Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice.BPdc (Back Post Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice.
Granny Squares (Make 30 Total)
You will need 12 squares for the dress and 18 for the cardigan.
Color Assignments: Type 1 squares (make 14): Center = Yarn E, Round 2 = Yarn C, Round 3 = Yarn B Type 2 squares (make 10): Center = Yarn D, Round 2 = Yarn C, Round 3 = Yarn B
Type 3 squares (make 6): Center = Yarn E, Round 2 = Yarn D, Round 3 = Yarn B Foundation Ring: With first color, ch 4. Join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1
Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, (3 dc in ring, ch 2) 3 times. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 sp)
Round 2
Join second color with standing dc in any ch-2 sp. Work 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp (corner made). Ch 1. (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp (corner). Ch 1. Repeat from beginning 2 more times. Join with sl st to top of beg standing dc. Fasten off. (24 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sp, 4 ch-1 side sp)
Round 3
Join third color with standing dc in any ch-2 corner sp. Work 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp (corner). Ch 1. 3 dc in ch-1 side sp, ch 1. (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 corner sp. Ch 1. 3 dc in ch-1 side sp, ch 1. Repeat from beginning 2 more times. Join with sl st to top of beg standing dc. Fasten off. (36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sp, 8 ch-1 side sp)
Completed square measures 3 in / 7.5 cm x 3 in / 7.5 cm after blocking.
Weave in all ends on every square before proceeding.
Dress Bodice
The bodice is worked flat from the bottom up. Use Yarn A and G-6 / 4.0 mm hook throughout.
Foundation Chain: Ch 83 (91, 101).
Round 1
(RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (82, 90, 100 sc)
Round 2
(WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (82, 90, 100 sc)
Round 3
(RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (82, 90, 100 sc)
Round 4
through 8: Repeat Row 2 and Row 3 alternately. After Row 8: (82, 90, 100 sc)
Round 9
Armhole shaping, RS Ch 1, sc in first 18 (20, 22) sts (right front panel), ch 4, sk 10 (10, 12) sts (right armhole), sc in next 26 (30, 32) sts (back panel), ch 4, sk 10 (10, 12) sts (left armhole), sc in last 18 (20, 22) sts (left front panel). Turn. (62, 70, 76 sc plus 2 ch-4 armhole spaces)
Round 10
(WS): Ch 1, sc in first 18 (20, 22) sts, 4 sc in ch-4 sp, sc in next 26 (30, 32) sts, 4 sc in ch-4 sp, sc in last 18 (20, 22) sts. Turn. (70, 78, 84 sc)
Round 11
through 16: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (70, 78, 84 sc)
Round 17
Neck shaping, RS Ch 1, sc in first 22 (25, 27) sts (left strap/shoulder area), ch 2, sk 2 sts (button hole), sc in next 22 (24, 26) sts (front neck), ch 2, sk 2 sts (button hole), sc in last 22 (25, 27) sts. Turn. (66, 74, 80 sc plus 2 ch-2 spaces)
Round 18
(WS): Ch 1, sc in first 22 (25, 27) sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next 22 (24, 26) sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in last 22 (25, 27) sts. Turn. (70, 78, 84 sc)
Round 19
through 22: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (70, 78, 84 sc) Fasten off. Bodice is complete.
Checkpoint: The bodice should measure approximately 4 in / 10 cm tall (6-12 mo), 4.5 in / 11.5 cm tall (12-18 mo), or 5 in / 12.5 cm tall (2T), and 15.5 in / 39 cm (17 in / 43 cm, 18.5 in / 47 cm) wide at the lower edge.
Straps (Make 2)
Work flat with Yarn A and G-6 hook.
Foundation Chain: Ch 7.
Round 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sc)
Round 2
through 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)
Round 4
Button hole row Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Turn. (4 sc plus ch-2 sp)
Round 5
Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in last 2 sts. Turn. (6 sc)
Round 6
through 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)
Round 9
Second button hole Repeat Row 4. (4 sc plus ch-2 sp)
Round 10
Repeat Row 5. (6 sc)
Round 11
through 26 (11 through 30, 11 through 34): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)Fasten off.Attach straps: At the back of the bodice, align each strap with the upper edge 1.5 in / 3.8 cm from center back on each side. Sew securely. At the front bodice, sew one 5/8 in button on each side at the position matching the strap button holes.
Skirt
Work flat from top to bottom with Yarn A and G-6 hook.
Foundation Chain: Ch 165 (181, 201).
Round 1
(RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (164, 180, 200 sc)
Round 2
through 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (164, 180, 200 sc) Continue in sc without shaping for a total of 22 (26, 30) rows from foundation.
Checkpoint: Skirt body should measure approximately 4 in / 10 cm (4.75 in / 12 cm, 5.5 in / 14 cm) tall before the border.
Ribbed Cuffs
With F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and Yarn A, work cuffs into the lower edge of each sleeve tube.
Foundation: Join yarn at lower edge of sleeve. Ch 7.
Round 1
Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Sl st into next available stitch on sleeve edge. Turn. (6 sc)
Round 2
Working in BLO, sc in each sc across. Turn. (6 sc) Continue until cuff has traveled all the way around the sleeve lower edge. Seam the cuff foundation edge to the final row edge. Cuff depth: 6 rows = approximately 1 in / 2.5 cm.
Bonnet Hat
Work in the round from the crown downward in waffle stitch.
With G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and Yarn A, make a magic ring.
Round 1
Ch 1, 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc)
Round 2
Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (12 sc) Continue increasing 6 sts per round until hat measures 16 to 18 in / 40.5 to 45.5 cm in circumference. Then work even in waffle stitch pattern to desired depth, approximately 5 to 6 in / 12.5 to 15 cm.
Granny Square Yoke Panels
The yoke panels are sewn onto the front of the bodice between Rows 5 and 8, centered between the armhole lines.
Arrange 3 squares horizontally side by side (all sizes). For size 2T, leave a 1/4 in / 6 mm gap between squares.
Center the 3-square panel on the front bodice and pin. Using Yarn A and yarn needle, whipstitch along all four sides of each square, catching only the front bodice fabric so the seam does not show on the wrong side.
Granny Square Hem Border
Arrange 8 (9, 10) granny squares side by side along the lower edge of the skirt.
Using Yarn A and yarn needle, whipstitch the top edge of each square to the lower edge of the skirt body. Ensure squares are evenly spaced across the full width. Then whipstitch the squares to each other at their side edges.
After all squares are attached, work the scallop edging across the bottom of the squares using Yarn A and G-6 hook:
Attach yarn at lower left corner of the leftmost square. Sl st in first st along lower edge of squares. (Sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) across entire lower edge. Fasten off.
Cardigan Construction
The cardigan is built from an 18-square grid assembled using join-as-you-go (JAYG). The layout is 6 squares wide by 3 squares tall for size 6-12 months. Use 7 squares wide for 12-18 months, 8 squares wide for 2T.
Assembling the Body
Fold the grid in half along the horizontal center. The fold creates the shoulder line.
For size 6-12 months (6 squares wide): Leave the center 2 squares on each side open for armholes. Seam the remaining 1 square on each side at the side seams.
For size 12-18 months (7 squares wide): Leave center 2 squares on each side for armholes. Seam 1.5 squares on each side.
For 2T (8 squares wide): Leave 2 squares on each side for armholes. Seam 2 squares on each side.
Using Yarn A and yarn needle, whipstitch the side seams. The cardigan opens at the center front.
Button Band
With F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and Yarn A, work attached sc ribbing along each center front edge.
Right Front Band (buttonholes): Foundation ch 7. Work 6 rows sc ribbing in BLO attached to right front edge, then work buttonhole row:
Buttonhole Row: Sc in first 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Work buttonhole rows at Rows 3, 9, 15, and 21.
Left Front Band (plain): Work identically without buttonhole rows.
Sew buttons on left front band opposite each buttonhole.
Cardigan Ribbed Lower Band
With F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and Yarn A, work 8 rows of sc ribbing in BLO attached to the entire lower edge of the cardigan body. Fasten off. Seam ends at the button band edges.
Hood
With G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and Yarn A, pick up stitches along the neckline.
Pick-up row: With RS facing, join Yarn A at right front neckline corner. Sc evenly across neckline. Target stitch count: 45 (48, 51) sc. Turn. (45, 48, 51 sc)
Rows 1 through 4: Work Rows 1 through 4 of Waffle Stitch pattern. (45, 48, 51 sts)
Rows 5 through 28 (5 through 32, 5 through 36): Continue in waffle stitch pattern without shaping. (45, 48, 51 sts)
Fold the hood panel in half vertically. Seam the top edge closed using whipstitch or sl st seam.
Hood Scallop Trim
With G-6 / 4.0 mm hook and Yarn A, work scallop edging along the front opening edge of the hood. Work 1 row of sc to establish a base, then work: (Sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sl st in next st) across.
Hood Stripe Accent
With F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and Yarn B, work 1 row of sc across the base of the hood where it meets the neckline, then 1 row of sl sts in Yarn A.
Checkpoint: The assembled cardigan should measure 9 in / 23 cm (10 in / 25.5 cm, 11 in / 28 cm) from shoulder fold to lower hem edge and 18 in / 45.5 cm (20 in / 51 cm, 22 in / 56 cm) across the chest when laid flat.
Join
Step 1When working Round 3 of each subsequent square, join to the neighbor during the final round:
Step 2At each shared edge, replace the ch 2 corner or ch 1 side chain with: ch 1, sl st into corresponding corner or side ch-sp of adjacent square, ch 1 (corner join) or sl st into corresponding ch-1 side sp of adjacent square (side join).
Step 3Work all body squares in the 6 (7, 8) x 3 grid using JAYG.
Check your count
- Straps (Make 2) · Round 2: 6 sts
- Straps (Make 2) · Round 6: 6 sts
- Straps (Make 2) · Round 11: 6 sts
- Ribbed Cuffs · Round 1: 6 sts
- Bonnet Hat · Round 1: 6 sts
Finish
- Weave in ends from every granny square, color change, and stripe section before any seaming begins, since the multi-color work leaves far more tails than a single-color piece.
- Seam the straps to the bodice and close the button band and cuffs, checking that the hood sits centered before it is sewn to the cardigan neckline.
- Block each granny square to its finished size before assembly, then block the joined dress, cardigan, and bonnet flat to even out the ribbing and waffle stitch texture.
Bigger or smaller
- Larger
- Move up to the next size stated in the pattern for the bodice foundation chain and strap lengths, and add extra granny squares to extend the joined grid for the cardigan. A heavier DK or a larger hook than the G-6 will also loosen the fabric and increase overall size.
- Smaller
- Drop to the smallest size given for the bodice and skirt rows, and reduce the grid by working fewer granny squares across the cardigan body. A finer DK with the F-5 hook throughout the main fabric will tighten the gauge and shrink the finished pieces.
FAQs
Asked and answered
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.
Do the dress and cardigan need the same granny squares?
Yes, all 30 squares come from the same three color-assignment types, with 12 going to the dress and 18 to the cardigan. Working them as one batch keeps the color balance consistent across both pieces.
Can the bonnet be made without the dress or cardigan?
Yes, the bonnet is a separate waffle stitch piece worked in rows and does not depend on the granny squares or bodice construction. It can be made on its own using the stated DK yarn and hook sizes.
What yarn works instead of the suggested brands?
Any smooth DK weight yarn is suitable, since fuzzy or bouclé textures hide the granny square motifs. A cotton-blend DK gives the crisper stitch definition the squares benefit from.
How are the squares joined to the dress and cardigan panels?
Squares are joined during the final round using join-as-you-go, replacing the usual corner and side chains with slip stitches into the neighboring square. This builds the grid directly without a separate seaming step afterward.