STITCH ROUND Flounder amigurumi crochet pattern for sea-creature fans
36 rounds builds the body, then fins and stripes finish this flounder amigurumi.
- Skill
- Intermediate
- Rounds
- 86 rounds
- Yarn weight
- Sport/DK
- Hook
- 3.0 mm
- Time
- 4-6 hours
Intermediate
What the original page called it. Nothing here is graded a second time.
86 rounds
Each one gets its own line, with a box beside it to tick as you go.
Sport/DK
What the sample was made in. Any weight works — the size moves with it.
About this pattern
This flounder amigurumi builds its oval body and head as one continuous piece across 36 rounds, worked in yellow from a magic ring outward. Cheeks, nose, lower lip, and mouth stack on as smaller add-ons, each its own quick round count, so the main tick-box is the body and everything else is trim.
The shaping leans on increases and 3-in-1 stitches to flare the oval wide before decreases pull it back in, so round-by-round stitch counts matter more here than usual. Slow down where the pattern calls for stuffing partway through the body rounds, and keep a stitch marker in place so the spiral doesn't drift off count.
- Start with the body and head worked as a single continuous yellow piece, shaping the oval from a magic ring.
- Pause partway through to stuff the body firmly before the opening closes up on its own.
- Work the smaller face pieces separately, including cheeks, nose, lower lip, mouth, eyes, irises, and eyebrows.
- Make the tail and both side fins, plus the large and small dorsal fins, as their own pieces.
- Crochet the flat body, tail, and side fin stripes in blue as short back-and-forth rows rather than rounds.
- Pin every piece in place on the body before sewing, checking the face layout and fin placement first.
What goes wrong
- Losing the spiral round count Keep a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up each time. Without it, the 36-round body is easy to miscount.
- Stuffing the body too late Stuff firmly at the point the pattern specifies, not after the opening has already started closing. Reaching into a nearly-closed body distorts the shape.
- Mixing up increase types 3-in-1 and inc look similar but produce different stitch counts across the oval shaping. Check the round's final count in parentheses to confirm the right one was used.
- Sewing flat stripes on crooked The body, tail, and side fin stripes are flat rows, not rounds, so they can twist when pinned. Lay each stripe flat and pin both ends before sewing to keep it straight.
Yarn, hook and the rest
Copied from the source pattern's own materials list.
Yarn
- Sport / Light DK weight, cotton blend (55% cotton recommended), approximately 150 m / 50 g per skein — in the following colors:
- Yellow (main color — body, cheeks, nose)
- Light blue (dorsal fins, side fins, tail)
- Blue/dark blue (stripes on body, tail, and side fins)
- White (eyes, highlight spots)
- Black (eyebrows, pupils, mouth)
- Green (irises)
Hook
- US D-3 / 3.0 mm
Stuffing
- Polyester fiberfill
- Yarn needle / tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Straight pins (for positioning pieces before sewing)
- Stitch marker
Progress tracker
0 of the 86 rounds on this page are ticked.
The pattern, round by round
Kept in the order and the wording the source used. Tick a round as you finish it; the ticks stay on this device.
Head / Body
Worked in Yellow yarn.
Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill before continuing, after Round 42.
Close the opening and fasten off at the end.
Step by step: Worked in Yellow yarn; Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.
Step by step: Worked in Yellow yarn.
Step by step: Worked in White yarn.
Step by step: Worked in Black yarn.
Step by step: Worked in Black yarn, worked in flat rows.
Round 1
6 sc in MR. (6)Step by step: inc in each st around. (12).Step by step: Skip 2 ch from hook, dc in next st, 2 hdc, 2 sc, 3 sl st. (8).
Round 2
(3-in-1, inc, sc) repeat 2 times. (12)Step by step: sc, 3-in-1, 3-in-1, sc, sl st. (9).
Round 3
sc, 3-in-1, 3-in-1, 3-in-1, 3 sc, 3-in-1, 3-in-1, 3-in-1, 2 sc. (18)Step by step: 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 6 sc, inc, inc, inc, 2 sc, sl st. (24).
Round 4
3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 6 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc. (24)
Round 5
5 sc, inc, inc, inc, 9 sc, inc, inc, inc, 4 sc. (30)
Round 6
(2 sc, inc) repeat 10 times. (40)
Round 7
(3 sc, inc) repeat 10 times. (50)
Round 8
(4 sc, inc) repeat 10 times. (60)
Round 9
(5 sc, inc) repeat 10 times. (70)
Rounds 10–14
sc in each st around. (70)
Round 15
(13 sc, inc) repeat 5 times. (75)
Round 16
sc in each st around. (75)
Round 17
(14 sc, inc) repeat 5 times. (80)
Rounds 18–19
sc in each st around. (80)
Round 20
(15 sc, inc) repeat 5 times. (85)
Rounds 21–25
sc in each st around. (85)
Round 26
(15 sc, dec) repeat 5 times. (80)
Round 27
sc in each st around. (80)
Round 28
(14 sc, dec) repeat 5 times. (75)
Round 29
sc in each st around. (75)
Round 30
(13 sc, dec) repeat 5 times. (70)
Round 31
sc in each st around. (70)
Round 32
(5 sc, dec) repeat 10 times. (60)
Round 33
sc in each st around. (60)
Round 34
(4 sc, dec) repeat 10 times. (50)
Rounds 35–37
sc in each st around. (50)
Round 38
(3 sc, dec) repeat 10 times. (40)
Rounds 39–40
sc in each st around. (40)
Round 41
(2 sc, dec) repeat 10 times. (30)
Round 42
sc in each st around. (30)
Round 43
(3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (24)
Round 44
sc in each st around. (24)
Round 45
(2 sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (18)
Round 46
sc in each st around. (18)
Round 47
(sc, dec) repeat 6 times. (12)
Round 48
6 sc. (6)
Lower Lip
Worked in Yellow yarn.
Round 1
ch 10. (10)
Round 2
Working along both sides of the foundation chain — 9 sc along one side, 9 sc along the other side. (18)
Round 3
inc, 7 sc, inc, inc, 7 sc, inc. (22)
Round 4
sc in each st around. (22)
Round 5
(2 inc, 9 sc) repeat 2 times. (26)
Mouth
Worked in Black yarn, worked in flat rows.
Round 1
ch 9. (9)
Round 2
8 sc. (8)
Round 3
sl st, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, sl st. (8)
Irises
Worked in Green yarn as a flat strip.
Round 1
ch 13. (13)
Round 2
sl st in each of the next 12 ch. (12)
Highlight Spots
Worked in White yarn.
Round 1
6 sc in MR, sl st to join.
Tail
Worked in Light blue yarn.
Round 1
ch 15. (15)
Round 2
14 sc along one side of the foundation chain, 14 sc along the other side. (28)
Rounds 3–4
sc in each st around. (28)
Round 5
(dec, 12 sc) repeat 2 times. (26)
Round 6
(dec, 11 sc) repeat 2 times. (24)
Round 7
(dec, 10 sc) repeat 2 times. (22)
Round 8
(dec, 9 sc) repeat 2 times. (20)
Rounds 9–10
sc in each st around. (20)
Side Fins
Worked in Light blue yarn.
Round 1
ch 8. (8)
Round 2
7 sc along one side, 7 sc along the other side of the foundation chain. (14)
Round 3
(inc, 6 sc) repeat 2 times. (16)
Round 4
(inc, 7 sc) repeat 2 times. (18)
Rounds 5–8
sc in each st around. (18)
Round 9
2 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 5 sc. (16)
Round 10
sc in each st around. (16)
Round 11
2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 4 sc. (14)
Round 12
sc in each st around. (14)
Round 13
2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc. (12)
Rounds 14–15
sc in each st around. (12)
Large Dorsal Fin
Worked in Light blue yarn.
Round 1
ch 7. (7)
Round 2
6 sc along one side, 6 sc along the other side of the foundation chain. (12)
Rounds 3–7
sc in each st around. (12)
Round 8
dec, 10 sc. (11)
Rounds 9–11
sc in each st around. (11)
Round 12
sc, dec, 8 sc. (10)
Rounds 13–14
sc in each st around. (10)
Round 15
sc, dec, 7 sc. (9)
Rounds 16–17
sc in each st around. (9)
Round 18
sc, dec, 6 sc. (8)
Rounds 19–22
sc in each st around. (8)
Round 23
2 sc, dec, 4 sc. (7)
Rounds 24–26
sc in each st around. (7)
Round 27
2 sc, dec, 3 sc. (6)
Rounds 28–29
sc in each st around. (6)
Round 30
dec, sc, skip 1 st, sl st.
Tail Stripes
Worked in Blue yarn, flat rows.
Round 1
ch 21.
Round 2
20 sc.
Side Fin Stripes
Worked in Blue yarn, flat rows — one stripe per fin.
Round 1
ch 27.
Round 2
26 sc.
Body Stripes
Worked in Blue yarn.
Each stripe is a flat piece worked in 2 rows. Make four stripes in increasing lengths.
Shortest Stripe (make 1) — Row 1: ch 20. (20)
Shortest Stripe (make 1) — Row 2: sc in each of the next 19 ch. (19) Fasten off.
Short Stripe (make 1) — Row 1: ch 30. (30)
Short Stripe (make 1) — Row 2: sc in each of the next 29 ch. (29) Fasten off.
Medium Stripe (make 1) — Row 1: ch 38. (38)
Medium Stripe (make 1) — Row 2: sc in each of the next 37 ch. (37) Fasten off.
Long Stripe (make 1) — Row 1: ch 46. (46)
Long Stripe (make 1) — Row 2: sc in each of the next 45 ch. (45) Fasten off.
Join
Step 1Orient the body correctly — it's an oval shape. The broader, rounder end is the face; the narrower end is where the tail attaches.
Step 2Sew the two tail stripes onto the tail piece, spacing them evenly.
Step 3Lightly stuff the tail with fiberfill.
Check your count
- Head / Body · Round 16: 75 sts
- Head / Body · Round 33: 60 sts
- Head / Body · Round 48: 6 sts
- Lower Lip · Round 1: 10 sts
- Lower Lip · Round 2: 18 sts
- Lower Lip · Round 3: 22 sts
Finish
- Weave in all loose ends from the smaller pieces, especially the eyes, irises, and eyebrows, before any sewing begins.
- Stuff the body firmly partway through its rounds as instructed, then add a lighter stuffing to the tail.
- Pin cheeks, nose, mouth, fins, and stripes in place first, then sew each piece on and close the body opening at the end.
Bigger or smaller
- Smaller
- Drop to a finer cotton blend yarn with a smaller hook, which shrinks the finished flounder without changing any round or stitch count in the pattern.
FAQs
Asked and answered
These answers came from whoever first published the pattern, kept word for word.
Can the body be made in a different color than yellow?
Yes, the body's yellow is a styling choice, not a structural one. Any cotton blend yarn in the same sport/DK weight will work the same way.
Why does the body need stuffing partway through instead of at the end?
The oval shape narrows again after its widest point, which makes it harder to pack fiberfill evenly once later rounds close in. Stuffing firmly before continuing keeps the shape even.
Are the stripes crocheted in rounds like the rest of the pieces?
No, the body, tail, and side fin stripes are flat pieces worked back and forth in short rows, not in the round. They're sewn on afterward rather than shaped as part of the body.
What does the invisible decrease do differently from a regular decrease?
The invisible decrease works through the front loops only, which keeps the decrease less visible on the fish's surface. It's used throughout the smaller rounded pieces like the eyes and pupils.